Bite Marks #26

2016.Apr.30 Saturday · 0 comments

in Restaurants

Let’s jump right in, there’s lots to cover and you all know how this goes….

Jumping off with La Locanda, José León Pagano 2697, here in Recoleta. It’s an Italian restaurant that’s the darling of many aficionados. I’d only been there once before and had an odd experience, so I’d never written it up, and somehow, just never went back to try it again, despite all the raves. I’m happy to say, finally having gotten back there, that the pastas, of which I’ve now tried two, are all they’re cracked up to be. Great malfatti with little crispy chipirones (baby squid), walnuts, lemon, cherry tomatoes, and herbs were just fantastic, and one of the best pastas I’ve had out and about in a long while. The lasagna was quite good – and certainly among the better ones I’ve had here in BA. We’ll be back to try more dishes and give the place a full writeup down the line.

One of the problems when multiple people suddenly open similar styled restaurants at the same time, is the inevitability of comparing and contrasting them. A long time colleague and friend from New York, Maurizio de Rosa, moved down here a couple of years ago and is one of the partners in Partenope, a pizzeria up in La Lucila, a little north of the city, a pizzeria I like quite a bit. And now he’s teamed up with Chef Dante Liporace of Tarquino, offering pizzas, I gather, at the hotel in which the restaurant is located, and also having just opened up San Paolo Pizzeria, Uriarte 1616 in Palermo. The Neapolitan style of pizza is a bit different from up at Partenope – it’s a softer, more pillowy dough, and a notedly thicker crust. Still a great tomato sauce, albeit different. And a range of different toppings to satisfy a variety of tastes. There’s a dinner special that includes a little selection of fried goodies, then an individual sized pizza, and finally dessert – an excellent pear, pistachio, and gorgonzola gelato. It’s a bit much food all in one – I’d probably just get a pizza on a return visit. And, much as I like the place, it comes on the heels of the opening of Cosi Mi Piace, which I wrote-up in my last Bite Marks, and which serves up my favorite style of pizza – Roman. And, of course, there’s Siamo nel Forno, another Neapolitan style place in the same ‘hood. Decisions, decisions. Something for everyone, no?

And a new (I think) sushi delivery spot, Tanizaki, French 2989, here in Recoleta, with a pretty decent selection. Focus is more on moderno and vanguardia, than classic, but they have some interesting combinations in their rolls, and not all of them, thankfully, include cream cheese. Some of the better (and bigger) gyoza that I’ve had in town – almost more like small empanadas that have been griddled – I guess another modern twist. Overall, from two deliveries we’ve tried, quite good.

A new shawarma spot to add to the ever lengthening ChroniclesAnubia, Tucumán 1579 in San Nicolás. Intriguing is the what I’d say for now – I literally wandered into the place the day after it opened, and they only had a couple of menu items available, and not all of their sauces made, and no waiter yet, it was just the owner, both in front and in back, running between the dining room and the kitchen. But it was a quite tasty shawarma – good seasoning, generous, with lots of onion and tomato as well, and a great flatbread, and overall well worth planning a return visit soon.

And we’ll wind up this round with Crizia, Gorriti 5143 in Palermo, a place that’s been on my list to check out for their mixed seafood grill, and that was the plan, but on arrival Henry declared it wasn’t what he wanted to eat, so that’ll have to wait for another time. Pretty room, very loungy. A bit of attitude, and no reason for it, the place was near empty the whole evening, yet service was pretty much non-existent, and a bit abrupt – at no point did we feel welcome, it was more like we were intruding on their space and their evening. The food was good, but nothing exciting. The oysters on the half shell were filled with grit, and three of the six hadn’t been detached from their shells. The burrata with various tomato preparations was far better, and actually the best thing we had. The seared tuna turned out to be more or less a warm salad, not quite what we expected from the menu description and was dressed in a very sweet lime and ginger vinaigrette, and the confited suckling pig was a small block of oily meat with lots of sweet accompaniments as well. Portions are small, and ridiculously priced – for these four plates, a couple of bottles of water, a bottle of wine priced at more than double retail, and whopping 96 peso cubierto charge, dinner with tip came in at almost 1600 pesos. Other than just for the completeness of the mixed seafood grill project, I’m not sure it’s even worth going back for that.



Burnt Offerings #2

2016.Apr.24 Sunday
Thumbnail image for Burnt Offerings #2

You may or may not remember the group of sauces that I learned to make one day while in Guadalajara, one of which was a salsa negra. There are various versions of Salsa Negra, or Salsa Baja, in Mexican cuisine, most come from dark roast or deep frying chilies or tomatoes, or adding soy, or, […]

Read the full article →

On The Sunae Side of the Street

2016.Apr.15 Friday
Thumbnail image for On The Sunae Side of the Street

I almost just want to leave this review in the category of “a picture is worth a thousand words”. It’s been five years since I reviewed Cocina Sunae, a closed door restaurant offering up ridiculously good pan-Asian cooking off in Villa Ortuzar, just a bit outside the dining center of Palermo. At the end of […]

Read the full article →

More Street Food!

2016.Apr.10 Sunday
Thumbnail image for More Street Food!

The street food festivals continue, seemingly year-round these days. The last two weekends they kept going despite inclement weather. When you gotta party, you gotta party. The regular BA Market turned itself over to a full-on Food Truck Festival at the Palermo hippodrome last weekend, with dozens of tricked out trailers offering up global cuisine, […]

Read the full article →

Burnt Offerings #1 / Peculiar Pastas #1

2016.Apr.08 Friday
Thumbnail image for Burnt Offerings #1 / Peculiar Pastas #1

Smoked, toasted, caramelized, blistered, scorched, singed, seared, browned, blackened, charred, burnt – we are fascinated in the kitchen with the idea of putting ingredients to the flame, and often taking them not just right to the edge, but well on past it. The idea has come up a couple of times recently, first while in […]

Read the full article →

Bite Marks #25

2016.Mar.31 Thursday
Thumbnail image for Bite Marks #25

It’s been awhile since the last Bite Marks, let’s catch up! There are also a couple of full reviews coming up shortly…. Back in Chronicles of Shawarma – Book X, I reviewed the shawarma, unfavorably, at Al Rayan in Villa Urquiza – there was little to like about it, an overseasoned, poorly made shawarma, and […]

Read the full article →

Tongue-Fu Pig

2016.Mar.29 Tuesday
Thumbnail image for Tongue-Fu Pig

It wasn’t quite the quail of my last post, but when a local butcher, whom I’d requested to order me up some lambs’ tongues for a dish I was thinking about, told me he couldn’t get any, but, “hey, here, I have a couple of pig’s tongues that you can have”, I wasn’t going to […]

Read the full article →

The Quails (2016)

2016.Mar.25 Friday
Thumbnail image for The Quails (2016)

There have been, as best I know, three bands called The Quails. Since I can’t decide between them, I present you with a little music from each. You can pick which one gets you in the mood for a little quail cookery. 1957-1963, Originally called The Five Quails, later just The Quails, a Cleveland based […]

Read the full article →

The Bread & Soup Project #11 – Austria

2016.Mar.22 Tuesday
Thumbnail image for The Bread & Soup Project #11 – Austria

You thought I’d either forgotten about or abandoned this project. But no, I’ve just been really busy with other stuff, and, probably more, the hotter summer months just didn’t feel like they lent themselves well to steaming bowls of hot soup and stuffed breads just out of the oven. But, let’s get back on track, […]

Read the full article →