Camila, esto era solo una reseña de un restaurante especializado en gastronomía molecular (de 2009!). Yo no cocino así ni tengo nada que ver con la elaboración de algo como el producto que describes.

I also just caught this review of the place from The Atlantic Monthly – almost the identical menu – and almost the same opinion, dish for dish. And I thought I was being snarky….

Your review is the best I’ve read by far because it’s so exact about things that matter when you dine out, and it’s so detailed that I felt I was there. Now, I know what I missed out on. Thanks! Your description of the good wines juxtaposed against the poor quality of cooking was the funniest thing I’ve read in quite a while!

“Bully you” is all I think now about any would-be “Bulli” clone who resents my caring about what I will chew and digest. Italians have a word for intentionally adopting a cynical approach towards trying to do things well. ‘Pressapochismo’ refers to a movement whose proponents actually extol doing things badly and not caring about it. People into this judge their own and other adherents’ ‘success’ according to how bad their failure ended up being and how good they are at not caring about it. Arrogance blended with bravado is all it really is except failure as a goal is new. (Isn’t it??) In Italy, it’s seen as a trend that is producing seriously negative personal and societal impacts. To me, a restaurant that overcharges for poorly contemplated and executed food and accompanies this with a wine-serving policy that prejudices parties of more than one, both under the wing of a chef who isn’t involved enough to even greet his customers but thinks his particular credential is special is a good example of ‘pressapochismo’ in action.