I’d had it in mind to go to a “traditional” place called Doña Tina, that a couple of people recommended. But when I looked at the logistics, the cost of the taxi to go and come back would have run double the cost of dinner – it’s way off to the northeast part of the city, nearly on the city limits. And I was warned that it was likely that trying to get a taxi back was not going to be an option, I’d have to arrange for a remís, or hire car. Fuggedabowdit. (By the way, Chileans are the Brooklynites of Latin America – they slur words together and drop the final consonants all the time.)

Luis, at the hostel, suggested an alternative, not far away, a place with very traditional dishes, an award-winning chef, and, to boot, a show of traditional Chilean music. Sounded like an interesting bet, what the heck. So, off I went to Los Buenos Muchachos, here in Barrio Brasil. I was early for the show, getting there about 8:30, turned out the show doesn’t start until 10:30. But, they were in full rehearsal mode, so I pretty much got to see the whole show, just without costumes.

On to the food – which was delicious!

I was puzzled, the empanada on the menu seemed a bit pricey. But, I’d wanted to try the local empanada de pino, the last word literally meaning a pine tree, but here referring to a classic mixture of chopped steak and onions. Then it arrived, taking up half a dinner plate – the thing was huge. Apparently that’s not out of the ordinary for Chilean empanadas – people often split them. When I mentioned it to Luis on my return he started laughing and told me about a place he likes to go to that makes an empanada filled with an entire boneless and stuffed chicken – and people order it as a main course for one! I don’t think I could eat a whole chicken even without the empanada covering and a stuffing.

On to the main course, specialty of the house, gold medal winner, made the chef’s fame, all that kind of stuff – Garrón. Described as the “forearm” of a lamb, braised and then finished in a spicy sauce. Okay, it was two forearms, count them, two, and a mount of mashed potatoes that had to be made from three large sized baking potatoes. And the sauce? Heavenly – spicy, smoky, great depth of flavor, simply amazing. I want that recipe. Now! [found it online….]